Thomas Downing: Oysterman and Abolitionist
I don't care for Black History Month. Just hear me out. Denoting a specific month where we single out the contributions of any community, in any capacity, will forever keep those contributions separate and marginalized. I agree with the sentiments and foundations, but we can all see the execution, or lack there of, has not lead to equitable representation. Lumping all these figures together under one banner for a short 28 days is also a disservice to their individual merits, and often excludes commendable others. Both the accomplishments and tribulations of African Americans need to be woven into the fabric of our entire historical perspective, culture, and curriculum. Matter of fact, in many instances, that history is the fabric. I recently listened to an interview with Stephen Satterfield, food writer and host of High on the Hog, in which he was asked if African Americans were finally getting appropriate recognition for their contributions to American cuisine and culinary history. Satterfield humbly said that wasn't the correct way to view it, because many of those individuals were the creators of the cuisine, not just contributors. I think this echoes beyond just food and to American history in its entirety.
 |
| Thomas Downing - courtesy of New York Public Library via The Virginia Pilot |
Now, obviously, I don't actually dislike Black History Month. Saying that is definitely provocative for provocation's sake. Eye-catching. Attention-grabbing. Intentionally drawing ire from the reader. I'm sure there's a formal literary term or phrase for it with which I'm not familiar. What I'm saying is nothing new, though, already having been widely debated and discussed for decades. And as a white, American male, my addressing this topic is rather questionable from the start, particularly through the lens of an oyster blog. If I knew how to change the presentation of the American narrative to be more equitably, and deservedly, representative of those who have been marginalized, I certainly wouldn't be writing about seafood for my twenty-odd readers. It's not even my place to do so. My role is to listen and support how we can effect appropriate change. More importantly, my role is to teach my children to do the same, just better than I have.
The sad irony of my writing this just after Black History Month is truly demonstrative of how desperately we still need it. Virtue signaling TikToks and Tweets about Frederick Douglas or the Tuskegee Airmen were part of what inspired this post. We need Black History Month and other dedicated months of observance to reignite these conversations regularly, keeping the difficult dialogues around historical and contemporary inequity at the forefronts of our minds. So, in reality, I guess I really do like Black History Month, but optimistically and confidently look forward to a day when it's no longer necessary.
With all that said, I wanted to use this post to briefly explore Thomas Downing, an icon of both American abolitionist and oyster history. Downing was born 1791 in Chincoteague, a small coastal town on the Eastern Shore of Virginia. His parents were freed slaves, as their land-owner had been convinced by a traveling preacher that no Methodist could be a member of the church and a slave-owner. Downing was raised tending to the land his parents owned, and no doubt became an astute oysterman from the rich oyster beds around Chincoteague. Many freed slaves actually owned oyster and fishing businesses, as "discrimination was generally slacker" on the waves. He joined the U.S. Army during the War of 1812, which eventually brought him to Philadelphia, where he managed an oyster bar for several years.
 |
| Modern day 5 Broad Street in NYC where Downing's Oyster House once stood - via MAAP |
Somewhere in 1819, Downing moved to New York. Economic opportunity was much greater in New York, as many taverns, dance halls, tailors, and other businesses were acceptably owned and operated by Black men. Staten Island would even become home to one of the oldest free Black settlements in the United States, Sandy Ground, founded in 1828. New York was also the "Big Oyster" at the time and the epicenter of all things on the half shell. With Downing's oyster acumen, the move made perfect sense. He purchased a small skiff and began harvesting and selling the highest quality oysters. His reputation as a keen oyster purveyor quickly grew, and in 1825, he opened Downing's Oyster House at 5 Broad St. in the heart of New York City's financial district.
 |
| Downing Pickled Oyster Jar Courtesy of NY Historical Society |
Oyster houses, or cellars and refectories as they were known, were ubiquitous in New York in the 1800s, and oysters were a food for for every color and class. Black, white, rich, poor - everyone ate oysters. However, most oyster cellars were more akin to modern day dive bars, frequented by denizens of moral turpitude. Several oyster cellars even doubled as brothels. Downing's was different, and his location in the financial district was no accident. It was one of the first fine-dining establishments in New York, brimming with glass chandeliers, fine curtains, plush carpets, ornate dishes and flatware. Politicians, aristocrats, businessmen, police chiefs, merchants, and high society fat cats frequented Downing's Oyster House. Women could even respectably patron and be seen at the oyster house, something almost unheard of at the time. Contemporary accounts raved about his raw, stewed, fried, pickled and scalloped oysters. Downing's business, affluence, and status grew, so much that he was invited to serve Charles Dickens at the Boz Ball in 1842. He even shipped oysters to Queen Victoria in England, who was reportedly such a fan that she sent him a gold watch as thanks. Downing's Oyster House became a New York landmark, and Downing became the Oyster King of New York.
It's important to keep in mind that slavery was only formally abolished in New York in 1827, two years after Downing opened his oyster cellar. Even with slavery outlawed in the state, escaping slaves from the South were fiercely tracked down by bounty hunters throughout the city. And while there were many free Black men and women in New York City, discrimination, segregation, and inequity were still systemic and pervasive. Sadly, this can still be said of today in many ways. Downing's achievements were in spite of these adversities. He may be celebrated as a wealthy oyster magnate, but his true accomplishments were in fighting for civil rights. In 1836, Downing helped found the Anti-Slavery Society of the City of New York, advocating for the abolition of slavery nationwide. He financed fights against fugitive slave laws and petitioned the New York legislature for equal voting rights. The African Free School received continuous funding from Downing. He even fought to desegregate New York transit, being beaten after refusing to deboard a trolley and concurrently suing the driver in 1838. This was well over 100 years before Rosa Parks. Most notably, Downing's Oyster House was a key stop on the Underground Railroad. He hid hundreds of escaping slaves in his basement while en route to Canada and freedom. All this while the very police officers and politicians tasked with enforcing fugitive slave laws, none the wiser, fattened themselves and Downing's pockets above. He wielded his wealth, influence, and prestige for African American education, equality, and freedom.
Downing became an official U.S. citizen on April 9, 1866, along with thousands of other African Americans, through one of the first Civil Rights Acts. Unfortunately, he passed away the following day on April 10, 1866. Thousands attended his funeral, and his stature in the community was so great, that even the New York Chamber of Commerce closed for the day in his observance. He died one of the richest men in New York, not just financially, but meritoriously through his resolute fight for equal rights and freedoms. Much of what he fought for would not come to fruition until after his passing, such as the Fourteenth and Fifteenth Amendments, guaranteeing equal protection and voting rights. However, Downing's actions and advocacy paved the way for these milestones, and will hopefully continue to inspire those we still need.
It's important to keep in mind that slavery was only formally abolished in New York in 1827, two years after Downing opened his oyster cellar. Even with slavery outlawed in the state, escaping slaves from the South were fiercely tracked down by bounty hunters throughout the city. And while there were many free Black men and women in New York City, discrimination, segregation, and inequity were still systemic and pervasive. Sadly, this can still be said of today in many ways. Downing's achievements were in spite of these adversities. He may be celebrated as a wealthy oyster magnate, but his true accomplishments were in fighting for civil rights. In 1836, Downing helped found the Anti-Slavery Society of the City of New York, advocating for the abolition of slavery nationwide. He financed fights against fugitive slave laws and petitioned the New York legislature for equal voting rights. The African Free School received continuous funding from Downing. He even fought to desegregate New York transit, being beaten after refusing to deboard a trolley and concurrently suing the driver in 1838. This was well over 100 years before Rosa Parks. Most notably, Downing's Oyster House was a key stop on the Underground Railroad. He hid hundreds of escaping slaves in his basement while en route to Canada and freedom. All this while the very police officers and politicians tasked with enforcing fugitive slave laws, none the wiser, fattened themselves and Downing's pockets above. He wielded his wealth, influence, and prestige for African American education, equality, and freedom.
 |
| Downing's Oyster House on The NYC Freedom Trail Map |
Thomas Downing was renowned for many things, most of which I have no place or chance at venerating in a modest blog post. However, two of his most famous were pickled oysters and oyster pan roasts, at least culinarily speaking. So, I decided to try my own version of this oyster pan roast, a Downing-inspired dish served at the National Museum of African American History in Washington D.C. An oyster pan roast is somewhere in the realm of oyster stew, bisque, or soup - just a bit more concentrated with some added spice. It's basically oysters, oyster liquor, cream, and seasoning. The dish, or a variation at least, seems to have been around for ages, probably inspired centuries back by classic French cooking techniques. Grand Central Oyster Bar's in New York is the most prevalent, and has been on the menu since 1913. Doane's Oyster House in Olympia, Washington had a famous one back in the late 1800s. Pan roasts are also very popular in Las Vegas of all places. I'm very curious of those origins, but that's another blog post, perhaps.
 |
| 1961 New York Times Cookbook Grand Central Oyster Pan Roast Recipe |
 |
| Oyster Pan Roast Ingredients |
I started by rendering and crisping the pancetta, then removing it from the pan. I added in some butter and the shallots to the pancetta fat to brown. Next came oyster liquor, thyme and the hot, HP, and Worcestershire sauces to reduce. Shortly thereafter, in went the oysters. I held them back a bit as they would have overcooked had I added them at the same time as the other ingredients (no steam-jacketed kettle, remember). Finally, in went the cream and I consistently stirred to bring it all together, never allowing the cream to go beyond a slight bubble.
 |
| Bayard Rustin Oyster Pan Roast |
Cheers,
The SF Oyster Nerd
Source materials (not limited to):